Fashion, Runway

There’s Politics Behind Moschino’s FW17 Menswear Collection

You were thinking of classic Jeremy Scott for Moschino until the end of the world was explicitly connoted.

Menswear FW17 has ended and there is one show that, I thought, was particularly in line with planet Earth today. The statement was so strong that no word were necessary, it was a matter of feeling: the aesthetics of the photographs that I was browsing, it was all about politics.

The first few looks were all very usual, on the same wavelength as all the other sci-fi inspired pieces that we saw that week. But as functional details and countdown-clock-like motives appeared on dresses and suits, Scott designed the little soldier of tomorrow – except they look motivated by a powerful desire to change world. Now I thought: maybe I’m the one who overreacts (that’s a special feature of mine) again and maybe I’m the one who sees signs of political despair everywhere since Donald Trump’s oath. But as I did my research, I realized that not only did the major magazines and specialists note this aspect too, but Jeremy Scott himself confirmed my thoughts.

So all these army garments embellished with romantic roses and Cherubs were not a dream. They were reality, and a striking one. Something that just won’t let anyone insensitive – or you’re waking up from a coma and I’m more than honored that this post is the first thing you read. Hear me well though: the adventurous spirit of all this utility belting and cargo looks is not the first thing I would buy for my boy, but let’s throw all rationality away for a minute and focus on the poetry in all that. That’s a very Baudelaire-kind of poetry, I admit, very dark and mindfucking, but that’s the world we’re in.

Because how much more relevant to our society could have it been? Mixing apocalyptic references and the military vestiaire with a beautiful garden and religious, spiritual icons was as though reading the world through the most honest crystal ball. Aren’t these the key words that sum up the current crisis on this world’s Greats’ files: danger – army – security – religion – love… and hatred, too. Which is hardly present here although there is a sense of grief in this collection – see all-black funeral dresses for women and black tulle floating behind military gear. A sense of hope, too, is palpable once you’ve gone through the first hard coat. Flowers, again, color hints and Cherubs remind that there is still life going on and that, as the Women’s March this week proved, we’re everything but ready to fall.

All photos are courtesy of nowfashion.com and the work of Guillaume Roujas.

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